Sourcing Purity: The Anahara Journal

Dive deep into the origins of our Indian superfoods. We share stories from the source, exploring the methods of ethical and sustainable harvesting, detailing our rigorous quality control standards, and uncovering the rich wellness benefits of ingredients like Makhana and Shilajit.

Yeh le… kamal ka beej khayega? Rajan asked me as he popped a white puffed something with a spot of black on it. He was asking me if I’d like to have a lotus seed. I had never even heard of a lotus seed, and naturally, I had not eaten it earlier. But he had a pocket full of it.

I tried one and found it pretty awful. It tasted like flat chewing gum with no flavour and no juice. So when he tried to give me another, I refused. It was alluring by its name, Lotus… for anything you do in India, the most common spiritual icon is the lotus. It is the ancient sitting style for spiritual meditation. Lord Buddha is represented by a lotus, if not his statue. But why is lotus seed so tasteless?

“Because your friend is an idiot. He gave you what is called makhana, and we botanists call it Euryale ferox, and foreigners buy it for Rs 150 a kg here and sell it for Rs 3,000 abroad,” Dr Shubir Ghosh had told me. “It is not exactly lotus, but comes from the same water lily family as the lotus.

“And, “he said, “it is not eaten raw, but dry-fried. Just take some makhana, put in a wok without oil, and when it becomes crunchy, put some beetnoon, or Himalayan Pink Salt and have it. It is marvellous!”

Shubir would know. I am speaking of 20 years ago. My friend Shubir, Dr Shubir Ghosh had been given a scholarship project to study the wetland products of Bengal and Bihar. That is when he had told me of makhana. And in those days, this was found only in local shops in Bihar.

Not the global craze it has not become.

So 20 years ago, he had told me of the wonder called makhana. And when I asked him why foreigners pay such a high price for it, Shubir said: “Because the foreign kids food companies use it in their baby food. It is a fantastic, powerful seed that gives not just strength but also a large number of minerals essential for kids’ growth.”

Later, I learned that makhana is best grown in the wetlands of Mithila. That adds an additional magic to makhana… the magic of an Indian epic that millions know about all over the world. In our ancient Indian epic, Ramayan, Sita, the wife of Lord Ram, the prince of Ayodhya, was the daughter of King Janak, Janak was the king of Mithila. So Mithila Makhana has been known since then.

It is here that makhana grows the best. To be honest, makhana grows in other wetlands too, in Bihar and in Assam, or in some south Asian countries and China too.

But the origin of makhana is Mithila in Bihar, where alone the best is found, which is why Mithila Makhana got the Geographical Indicator (GI) tag in 2022.

“A GI tag comes under the Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property. Even though the concept of GI was introduced by the World Trade Organization in 1994, it may actually have its roots in ancient times, when place names were used to identify the origin and quality of products,” Rajah Banerjee, the legendary owner of the famous Makaibari Tea Estates in Darjeeling had told me.

That means, if you claim that something has a GI tag of Mithila, or Darjeeling, or any other famous place, that product has to have the DNA signature of the soil and water and everything else of that specific area.

“That is what I mean,” Manoj Kanak, the *** of Anahara Overseas told me when he started launching Mithila Makhana for exports towards the end of 2025. “We have captive wetlands where the best grade of makhana grows in Mithila, which is part of my own homeland, Bihar. You know it, Sujit.” He told me.

And Manoj and I have lived through the best of times and worst of times, so I know he would not make up facts… not for me, not for anyone.

It is true. If you want munchies that your kids can have while watching football or IPL, just give them dry-fried makhana with Himalayan Pink Salt and see them relish it. And grow!

– Sujit Chakraborty

It was fairly deep inside the Kumbhalgarh forest. Out jeep careened over humps on the ground, moving forward, crunching leaves, dry branches and twigs on the floor of the jungle. The dense green canopy of the tall dhok, khair, tendu and ber trees. The teal trees stood tall and majestic, and the bamboo trees shed their thin, slick, knife-like leaves all the time, which the mild May breeze rustled up.

All on a sudden, we came to a forest clearing where some hectic activity was going on. There were men in shabby, sometimes torn shirts and women wearing their saris half the way up to their knees. They were all of the ancient Meena and Bhil tribes. And of all the trees, their central concern was the ber, or the black plum, called jamun or kalajamun in their homelend, the forest.

Even the World Bank recognises today that foresters should be allowed to live in the forests because they know it like their own home. And these Meena and Bhil tribes knew the magic of the black plum. They have been having the fermented juice for ages, and lately, a few decades ago, doctors from the cities told them that plum arrack cures one of diabetes.

What is diabates, they ask? Because they have never had diabetes, so they do not know. But the doctors said that they never had diabetes because they had jamun juice since generations.

I was in Kumbhalgarh at the invitation of the Samarth, an NGO that stopped exploitation of tribal communities in Rajasthan, India’s magnificent desert state. Kamalendra Singh Rathore, the head of Samarth had invited me to see this.

So deep within the forest, where much of the forest floor was coloured deep purple due the fruits being smashed under feet when they fell from the tall trees. Some meh were pulping fermented plums over a dug-up area of six feet by six feet.

The pulp was then being put into a locally made boiler, where the juice was evaporating, the fumes carried trough a pipe to cool down and collect in a different sealed container.

This is pure black plum arrack, collected naturally from deep forests, where no chemicals ever entered; they are collected by tribal women and fermented, and then the village team makes the arrack from them, just as I described.

Kamalendra was not exactly hesitant when were talking, but he was cautious: “Basically this is how illegal hooch, or arrack is made. And in our packages too, we write it is Jamun Arrack. That is because we have medical authority clearance for it as a safe medicine for diabetes.”

The National Health Institutes of the US’ website contains several studies on the health benefits of black plum (Syzygium cumini, also known as Java plum) and its extracts, highlighting its potential in areas like blood sugar management, cancer prevention, and antioxidant activity due to its rich content of bioactive compounds such as jamboline and anthocyanins. While these studies indicate promise for various therapeutic applications, further research, especially in human subjects, is needed to confirm these effects.

Anti-diabetic Properties:

Black plum contains jamboline and jambolin, alkaloids and glycosides, respectively, that may inhibit the conversion of starch to sugar in the digestive system and help control blood glucose levels.

Antioxidant and Anti-cancer Effects:

The fruit is rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins, which are powerful antioxidants. Studies show that black plum extracts have anti-proliferative and pro-apoptotic effects on certain cancer cells, suggesting potential in cancer prevention and treatment.

Black plum is a source of various vitamins, minerals, and soluble fiber, contributing to overall health and potentially aiding in weight management.

The concentration and type of bioactive compounds can vary between different parts of the plant (pulp, seed, leaves), and extraction methods can also influence the final product’s composition.

Recently, it has also been tested for its anti-colon cancer properties, but NIH says that more studies are required to investigate the effects of anthocyanin-rich black plum extracts on colon cancer, especially given the known benefits of dietary anthocyanins

The door opened as if a storm had hit it. Inside, everything was chaotic, flying about… books, pencils, empty plastic bowls. “What’s the matter?” I asked. I had just come from office.

“She won’t have her milk,” wife said, looking furious. I picked baby up and asked her, “Why is my darling not having milk?”

“No honey… Mamma gave no honey.” And that started it. Baby running around, Mamma chasing her with a bread roller. Complete chaos. “You should have given her honey, what’s the problem? I asked my wife.

“I did… she is not having it!” I looked at both, like a peacemaker on the Israel-Palestine border. It transpired that Mamma had given honey, but she does not consider it honey at all! “I want that honey, she said… I want Papa’s honey!”

I got the point finally. I had brought some mountain-forest honey from Udaipur, Rajasthan, from my friend Kamalendra Singh. But that honey had finished. And Baby will not accept anything else… name any brand in the market… everything else is not honey, she stamped her tiny little feet on the ground.

I called Kamalendra over the phone and we had a good laugh, and he promised to send some more of his honey. “Maine to bola hi tha,” he said… “I had told you, this is raw honey, and you have seen how the tribals collect it. This is the purest possible. All the rest in the market are adulterated. Bacche to jhoot nahi boltey hain a (kids don’t lie, isn’t it?)”

The thing is that I had been invited by Kamalendra to visit Udaipur, see how the tribals farm wild, forest honey from up in the hills in the desert state of India. Kamalendra wanted me to write about it.

Indeed, it was something worth writing about. I had visited Udaipur. Two clear hours of drive from the city, we entered the forest. It was May, very hot. But the lush green forests were surprisingly cool.

“I never had an idea. People only think of Rajasthan as a desert,” I said.

“Oh no, there are so many forests and flowering trees are numerous here. The bees collect honey from these flowers. But do you know where the sweetest honey that we have come from? From the neem flowers (Azadirachta indica).

“I am shocked. Neem is extremely bitter,” I said.

“That is true, but our tribals have been collecting this since ages. So, because it is from neem flowers, it has all the well known medicinal values of neem…

 But during my three-day tour of Udaipur, I was struck by the sheer environmental concerns that Kamalendra and his team in the NGO Samarth portray.

“These bees fly away when the monsoon rains start. They have to live in distant areas and up in the hills where there is no or little rainfall. But to fly that distance, they need energy. For that, they also need honey.

“In the past the collectors would set a fire to generate smoke and drive away the bees hack off the entire hive and its honey. Now they leave enough honey for the bees to carry them as energy packets to fly to distance places and survive, and the hive remains almost intact. So when they come back, they have a ready home, Kamalendra explained. I was stunned.

I was stunned because this means that the bees who make the honey, themselves have it, which means it was absolutely pure, wild, forest honey.

So my sweetest civil war at home ended when I told my baby, wait, uncle will send you the honey in a day or two. Her condition for the truce was, she will not have aby other stuff till uncle sends it. “Okay, sweetheart,” I said.

Before I had left the forest in my tour, Nathuram, one of the tribal bee collectors asked me “Tell me, will you make any food at home that you yourself cannot have. Just like that, because this is pure honey, who is the best guarantor? The bees themselves, isn’t it?”.

It was a question that answered itself

Raj Prakash

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